My son and his girlfriend visited Marrakech in September – SO much better to ask his girlfriend to write a blog post – really very interesting, compared to what he would have written. Might have to ask him to do one just to have a laugh at the difference….
This trip to Marrakech was a belated twenty-first birthday present that helped us through the winter chill and although we went nine months later, September was the perfect time to go to Morocco. The sun still hits highs of 36 degrees and attempting to cover up in this heat is certainly no picnic. We explored the vibrant walled city for three days which was enough to get our bearings and enjoy lots the capital had to offer, but just wet our appetite for more North African adventures.
There is certainly no time to get bored when caught up in the hustle and the bustle of the Old Town. You just want to stop and do a full 360 degree turn, taking in all the smells of spices, sounds of snake charmers’ flutes and all things fresh and foreign. But… that’s one thing we quickly picked up on – never do typically touristy past-times like people-watch right out in the open air. Pretty soon, street vendors emerge from every nook and cranny, shouting shamefully stark Western stereotypes that leave a bittersweet taste. ‘Cheaper than Tesco’, ‘Asda Price’, ‘Better than Primark’, ‘Cheaper than Chips!’… they just kept coming! Yet the beauty of the souks and market place was that each and every one had individual character and so many bright, intricate hand-made goods, you couldn’t help but regret that the British are associated with such characterless TNCs.
We soon learnt that two blonde, English tourists were regarded as very easy prey. Before you can conjure up some elaborate lie about why you have no spare change, you have a monkey on a chain on your left arm, and a snake dangling from your newly henna-tattooed right one. The trick is to carry out this premium people-watching from the haven of an outdoor café. Here you earn the protection of shooing waiters, and can ‘keep calm and cool off’ in the shade away from the baking hot Jemaa el-Fnaa square.
The Moroccan food was amazing, we managed to eat well every meal, with everything being so reasonably priced. Each evening meal was delicious with two on rooftops of the Medina and one by a beautiful pool in Gueliz, the New Town. Our best eat was definitely at Chez ZaZa, an incredible rooftop restaurant smack bang in the middle of the Souks. The lamb and apricot tagine here is delicious – not to mention the magnificent view of the Koutoubia Mosque. It really was an amazing place to sit and watch the sun go down, especially hearing the bells and songs of prayer ring out across the magnificent bazaars. This is definitely a must-do, but be patient when trying to find it and follow the directions given in the comments on Tripadvisor, as without them, you have no hope!
The sun setting over the souks from Chez Zaza
On that note, the best piece of advice we were given by the owner of the Riad we stayed in was ‘Do not panic if you get lost’. The maze of markets is seemingly endless, and it can all feel a bit daunting if you think too hard about how you were to get out… But leave that quintessentially British concern for health and safety on the plane – otherwise you won’t even make it across the first road. The road etiquette here is seemingly non-existent. Each way you turn there is a moped undertaking a scruffy little donkey dragging something the size of a small house – but you soon adjust and learn to cross safely in the shadow of an accustomed local. Just whatever you do – do not under any circumstances hire a car! A great way to get around is by horse and carriage, and of course, if you haggle well, you can get a bargain ride round all of the main attractions.
We also went on a fantastic camel excursion which included an authentic stop in a small village near the Atlas Mountains, with – of course – some complimentary green tea. Not to mention some hilarious nomad attire! Another lovely thing to do is visit the colourful and shady retreat from the bustle of the Medina in the Jardin Majorelle. This sanctuary in the Ville Nouvelle has a lovely chilled courtyard café, incredibly grand gardens and a comparatively expensive, and of course extremely desirable shop.
The beautiful gardens, owned by Yves Saint-Laurent 1980-2008
Finally, if the sweet marmalades and rich spices all get a bit much, the New Town has lots of different restaurants, mainly French and Italian. This is also the place to shop if you’re still blue in the face from yesterday’s haggling spree! This is also the place to be if you find yourself craving a cold beer or glass of vino, as finding one in the Medina can be quite a task! The photo below was from a lovely restaurant called Trattoria Gianco, with fantastic food so remember to request a poolside table!
The happy couple:-
